Looking for a romantic night away in the North? Discover how The Toll House Inn in Lancaster blends luxury, history and homely charm for the perfect couples’ getaway.
There’s something about arriving somewhere just after it’s had a lovely glow-up. Everything feels fresh and cared for, and that’s exactly how it was when my husband James and I drove over from Yorkshire for a romantic night break at The Toll House Inn in Lancaster, which has been recently refurbished. It is a place packed with charm and is just gleaming with history.
I love a little staycation that doesn’t need an airport or lots of planning; instead it’s all about fresh scenery, good food and a comfortable bed. We’d never been to Lancaster before so I was unaware of just how historic this beautiful city is. Filled with quaint cobbled streets and grand old buildings, it’s gorgeous and the perfect setting for a short romantic break.
The Toll House itself sits right in the heart of the city, a handsome 19th-century inn that’s just had a £600,000 refurbishment. It’s clear this has been more than a small update and everything had been done with real care and consideration. The place still has so much history in its bones, with high ceilings, stained glass windows, and exposed beams galore, but now it’s paired with a gloriously contemporary feel. The boutique feel comes through in the scattered velvet chairs in jewel tones, the lovely soft lighting, and in the mix of old portraits and modern art that are placed throughout.
While I was taking photos in the lobby, one of the team came over and started pointing out little details I might have missed, such as the original arched window above the door, the reclaimed wood panelling, and even gave some insight into the building’s past as Lancaster’s old toll house. It was a genuinely lovely interaction that speaks to how the staff are here; I couldn’t fault the attentive service but even more so there is a real passion for the place.
Old Soul, Modern Comfort
Our double room was really well designed; striking that balance between heritage and boutique chic. The décor was calming, with soft greys, oak furniture, and splashes of mustard, and a highlight was the big sash windows that filled the room with light. A Lavazza coffee machine was a great addition (the coffee addict in me always looks for a good coffee machine first!), and there was the sweetest pack of homemade biscuits waiting for us too. At check-in, we were offered fresh milk to take to our room, a small gesture but a lovely one. The bathroom was sleek and modern, with a great shower, and it was stocked with White Company toiletries that smelled divine.
Ales, Bubbles and A Great Evening Buzz
Before dinner, we wandered down to the courtyard, which is a small-but-perfectly-formed sun trap, full of flowers and decorated with fairy lights. Being part of the Thwaites family, The Toll House Inn has an amazing selection of local cask ales as you’d expect. My husband James ordered a pint of Wainwright, followed by a Thwaites Original. I, on the other hand, stuck with a glass of Prosecco; after all you can take a girl to a real ale pub, but you can’t make her drink! I am all for the decor and ambiance, but James was delighted by the ales – so this was a win-win!
There was that perfect early-evening buzz: locals popping in after work, a few birthday celebrations and couples like us unwinding before dinner. It’s exactly the kind of easy-going, warm atmosphere that makes a romantic break so special.
An AA Dinner to Remember
We’d heard good things about the food here, and with an AA Rosette to its name, our expectations were high. The restaurant, being freshly revamped, is stunning and just the kind of décor I enjoy. Traditional yet modern, with wooden floors, original stained glass windows, Victorian-era original radiators (I must admit that these types of radiators are a bit of an obsession of mine so I loved that they restored the original ones), and shelves lined with vintage books. It’s elegant but not formal and the staff made us feel completely at ease. This is genuinely the kind of place where a romantic break evening dinner feels both luxurious and indulgent, yet unpretentious, allowing us to fully relax.
To start, I went for the Mussels in a Spiced Tomato Broth with coriander oil and charred sourdough. Just delicious and a really generous portion too. The sauce had just the right amount of warmth and depth. James chose the Pea Soup, a bowl of comfort topped with crème fraîche and a hint of mint. Simple, fresh and tasty.
For my main course, I couldn’t resist the Steak & Thwaites Ale Pie. It was a full crust pie – the definition of a ‘proper pie in my book, not of this pasty top only nonsense – filled with slow-cooked beef and a rich ale gravy, with thick-cut chips, kale and roasted carrots on the side. It was hearty, homely and one which, if we were to return on another romantic break, is a dish I would definitely order again without question. James ordered the Cumberland Sausage and Mash, which came piled high with creamy mash, crispy onions and stout and onion gravy. Proper comfort food, beautifully done. We did swap forks a few times… purely for research purposes, of course!
Dessert was the cheeseboard for James, featuring local Lancashire cheeses with crackers and chutney. I opted for the Miso Salted Caramel Tart which was utterly moreish.
After dinner, we sat in the bar for a while, listening to a group of local talented, and obviously highly experienced, older musicians jam away with each other on a range of acoustic covers. This was a lovely touch that made the evening feel relaxed and special; a chilled romantic break, done just right.
Mornings at The Toll House Inn
After a great night’s sleep in the large and eminently dreamy bed, we wandered down for breakfast. The coffee is freshly brewed and is Atkinsons Coffee, roasted right there in Lancaster. The use of local providers throughout is a lovely touch. For breakfast, I chose the Eggs Benedict. This is my go-to, so I can spot a particularly good one, and this fit the bill with perfectly poached eggs and a tasty hollandaise. James selected the Full English, which again, included local produce, which he said was very tasty indeed. We lingered over coffee, not quite ready to leave just yet… surely the hallmark of any great romantic break?
Out and About
One of the loveliest things about The Toll House Inn is its location. Step outside and you’re right in the centre of Lancaster, with cobbled streets, independent shops and grand architecture, all within walking distance. After breakfast we strolled up to Lancaster Castle, just ten minutes away, where the city’s fascinating and yes, slightly grisly, history comes to life. This city is such a gem for a romantic break, steeped in history that shouldn’t be overlooked.
We spent the rest of the morning exploring the boutiques and antique shops before heading back to the inn. The Toll House’s cosy charm makes it just as lovely to return to as it is to set out from and this – combined with its location – makes it therefore an ideal base for a romantic break that balances discovery and downtime.
Luxury and Warmth
The refurbishment has given The Toll House Inn polish and style, but it’s still full of soul and character. The team clearly love what they do, and that genuine hospitality shines through. From the fresh milk and homemade biscuits to the impromptu (and much appreciated) history lesson.
For us, it was the perfect romantic break: good food, great sleep, a bit of history and that feeling of being properly looked after. We left already planning our next visit – maybe for two nights next time!
Rooms at The Toll House Inn start from around £110 per night in October, including breakfast.
You can book directly at tollhouseinn.co.uk.
Review and images by Victoria Reddington @vic_reddington
