Everything about the intimate dining experience at Counter 71 reflects the sober curious movements mentality. Its mindful, optional and memorable.
The sober curious movement has left months like Sober October feeling a little outdated. The move away from absolutes to more a mindful consumption of alcohol without the necessity of going teetotal is a refreshing change in the British drinking culture. The team at Counter 71 are keen to cater to all and have produced the sober curious pairings, alongside the traditional wine pairing option.
Mindful
Head Chef Joe Laker, formerly of Fenn, has created a mindful 12 course tasting menu from seasonal produce from around the British Isles. His modern British style reflects his time at Tommy Bank’s The Black Swan, where he learned about farm to plate cooking and honed culinary skill. He also draws inspiration from food heroes such as Phil Howard.
The Chef’s Counter experience brings the diner into the working kitchen with front row seats to the action. The preparation and planning that must go into making the delivery of this 12 course look effortless is testimony to the team. It was an immaculate service and a fascinating experience.
The counter provides face to face experience and free flow of conversation from the General Manager/Sommelier, Harry Cooper and Joe Laker himself. It is so friendly, interesting and inclusive that you are completely in the moment, making it one the most mindful eating experiences that I have had.
Counter 71’s decision to partner with Saicho for this modern take on sober curious dining was also a mindful one. Saicho is an award winning, single origin tea. Much like wine, Saicho teas offer provenance, terroir and tasting notes much like wine, as the taste is determined by the climate, terroir and production methods by which its produced.
Saicho produce three sparkling teas Jasmine, Hojicha and Darjeeling and this has given Drinks Director, Ryan Sheehan plenty to play with in the creation of non-alcoholic cocktails that sit alongside the sparkling teas in the pairing menu.
Optional
The entire philosophy of being sober curious is based on it being optional. It was great to see people enjoying the wine pairing menu or the odd glass of Champagne, along with the sober curious cocktails in a non-judgemental environment.
I had made the personal decision to drink the night I visited. I was meeting a new friend, and we were celebrating. Out of courtesy I asked newly sober Head Chef Joe Laker if it was ok to order some bubbles alongside our tea pairings. In his affable, charming way he laughed at me, “of course”. This menu concept is not driven by what you can’t have, its driven by opening you up to the options of what you can have, which is an elevated, considered non-alcoholic, tea pairing which enhances the food.
Memorable
If this restaurant doesn’t have a Michelin Star by next year, I’ll eat my hat. The food is incredible.
The tasting menu kicks off with three snack style starters. The Tunworth Cheese Tart with pea and marigold signalled the start of proceedings, and at this point I knew we were in for a treat. The incredibly short, cheddar laced pastry just melted in the mouth. The Beef Tartare with fermented chilli and bone marrow was served on a freshly baked mini muffin and was equally delicious. These were paired with a refreshing tea and mint cocktail.
The fish courses of which there four were also expertly delivered. Stand out dishes for me were the Scallop with Fennel. The best scallop I think I have ever eaten in a rich, buttery foamed sauce – it was my dish of the night, simply sensational. The Pollock in Vin Jaune, a sherry style wine sauce was also a unique and clever dish, made even better by the fact that it was served with milk bread covered in chicken fat butter!!!
I’m a huge fan of coal cooking and it was great to see our Hogget dish being finished on the hot coals for that extra char and smoked flavour.
The 12 courses fly by, the mood and ambience are carefully orchestrated with lighting changes and as the team move to set up for the second service of the night you are gently invited to enjoy a cocktail downstairs in their cocktail bar Low Country, where you can decide how sober curious you really are. This is a meal for the memory box, the sober curious tasting menu will run for the next six weeks and I highly recommend booking.
Review and some images by Emmie Blower @emmiebhungry
Feature image and other images supplied
