It had been a while since I’d spent any proper time in East Dulwich, and I’d forgotten just how lovely this little village-feel pocket of London is for a mooch. Independent shops, cafés and restaurants line the streets, and it has an expensive neighbourhood feel that makes you want to stay a little longer.
One of those restaurants is KOKUM, which came highly recommended by a good friend and fellow foodie who had already given it the thumbs-up as the ideal spot for “a curry and a catch-up.” Frankly, that was all the convincing I needed. Walking into KOKUM, I was immediately struck by the pleasing symmetry of the main dining room. Banquette seating, subtle Indian artefacts and a slightly colonial-style influence give the space character without tipping into cliché. Meanwhile, the familiar aromas of warm spices drifting from the kitchen mixed with the restaurant’s more modern Indian feel, and reassured me that we were in the right place.
We kicked things off with the Lamb Chops marinaded Kashmiri chill, which were beautifully soft and served with punchy pickled onions and a pungent coriander chutney. Alongside them came the samosa chaat: messy, saucy and exactly the kind of curry dish you keep going back to for “just one more bite”. We were off to a very good start.
The standout dish of the meal, though, was undoubtedly the Chicken Kolhapuri. Slow-cooked chicken thighs yielded at the touch, the meat ridiculously soft beneath a deep, rich sauce that tasted as though it had been bubbling away in somebody’s grandmothers kitchen. That, for me, is always the sweet spot with Indian food: layered, comforting and delicious paired with a Peshawari Naan.
There is plenty to explore across the menu, with a wide selection of curries alongside a strong vegetarian offering of Mushroom Bjiryani, making KOKUM a useful one to know when you’re eating with a mixed group. It has enough familiar favourites to keep the traditionalists happy, but there are creative little touches woven throughout that stop things from feeling predictable.
Dessert continued that theme. The basil-infused Crème Brulé arrived with that all-important glass-like crack on top, giving way to a silky custard underneath. The basil was subtle but distinctive, adding freshness rather than overpowering the dish, and it made for a surprisingly elegant ending to a fairly hearty lunch.
And if eating your way through the menu leaves you wondering how on earth they create those flavours, KOKUM is now inviting guests behind the scenes.
Chef Sanjay Gour, whose career includes experience at Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Gymkhana, is bringing back KOKUM’s hands-on Indian cookery masterclasses. The three-hour sessions are designed to be properly interactive, with guests cooking alongside Sanjay rather than simply watching a demonstration.
Upcoming sessions include a Biryani & Tikka Masterclass and an Ultimate Butter Chicken Masterclass, with guests preparing dishes from scratch before sitting down to eat their creations together. Participants also leave with recipe cards and a goodie bag of essential ingredients, so there’s really no excuse not to attempt it all again at home.
A curry, a catch-up and possibly a few new tricks for your own kitchen? East Dulwich, I won’t leave it so long next time.
Review and most images by Emmie Blower @emmiebthere
Feature image supplied
