Athens is steeped in history and culture, from the ancient ruins dotted around the city, to its fascinating museums. You’ll never be stuck for things to see and do, whether you’re exploring the winding streets of Plaka or admiring the grand Temple of Olympian Zeus.
Here’s my personal experience of Athens and what I think you should know when booking your own trip.
Friendliness
A strange requirement for a mini break one might say! However, the more I travel, the more the attitude, warm interactions, and general upbeat energy of a city or country are becoming my priority. Every waiter, taxi driver, and member of the public we interacted with was warm, engaging, interesting, and helpful, making our entire experience of this ancient city an effortless pleasure.
I am not naïve; I am aware that we were staying in a particularly salubrious part of town. However, after warnings about the undercurrent of Athens being a little menacing, I am pleased to report it was anything but. Our hotel Xenodocheiomilos was located in the upscale district known ironically as Downtown Athens and sits in Parliament Gardens opposite the Old Parliament of Athens, benefiting from having high-end shopping arcades, restaurants, and bars on the doorstep.
Outstanding accommodation
Xenodocheimilos is the first, luxury boutique hotel from the world-renowned restaurateur, Costas Spiliadis. Having achieved global success with 12 Estiatorio Milos restaurants in hot spots around the world such as Dubai, Tokyo and Las Vegas, the hotel is an example of his pursuit of perfection.
With 42 elegantly airy rooms, there is something for everyone, from cosy crash pads to their signature one bedroom suite, complete with a terrace and jacuzzi and views of Mount Lucabettus. We marvelled at the silence, yet the effectiveness of the air conditioning, and couldn’t help but think what a sanctuary this would be in the heat of summer.
Their signature simple, minimalist look, is delivered with exceptional levels of luxury from the huge slabs of single-cut marble in the bathrooms to the exquisite bedding, all resulting in a restful, seamless stay.
Each room has been individually designed with the utmost attention to detail and despite its cool, formal exterior the service at Xenodochemilos is warm, humorous, and fastidious and after four days we began to feel like family and very at home.
Epic culture
Culture is all around you in Athens form the Olympic Stadium to the changing of the guard at the Presidential Mansion.
It costs just 10 euros to visit the Acropolis which is incredible value considering how up close and personal you get with the ruins. Despite what appears to be a steep climb to the top of the hill it is really accessible and the walk has plenty to see with various ruins of amphitheatres visible along the way, and the views of Athens get better and better as you climb.
The Acropolis is currently undergoing maintenance, but nothing prepared me quite for the size and majesty of this 7th wonder of the world. The scaffolding and machinery quickly paled into insignificance. It overdelivers as a monument and is a must-visit attraction. The concierge at Xenodocheiomilos can organise guided tours of the ruins if you would like a more informative visit.
Consistently great food
We did not have a bad meal in Athens! From the jaw-dropping luxury of Estiatorio Milos to the quirky cool of Giagiakoukou, we were met with dish after aesthetically pleasing dish of outstanding quality food.
Estiatorio Milas was recommended to me by Greek Travel writer Heidi Fuller-Love as “the best place to eat in Athens”, so you can imagine my delight when I realised that it was the restaurant of our hotel Xenodocheiomilos.
From the fresh fish on display like a statement of intent to the utterly mesmerising statement light fitting of a fisherman’s net with mother-of-pearl fish, Estiatoriomilos screams quality.
I was expecting great things. We allowed the fantastic Restaurant Manager to order for us and the meal was nothing short of sublime. From simple Greek dishes elevated by the finest of ingredients to the Lobster Pasta served in a whole lobster, every mouthful was utter perfection. I highly recommend it as a meal for the memory box.
In contrast, Giagiakoukou is a kitsch, themed restaurant offering dishes from their “Crazy Grandma” (a translation of the name) yet elevated to a fine dining standard. We enjoyed a quirky mezze of Tara Cream with Carob Powder, Squid with Bearnaise Sauce, and Chilli Oil. The main courses were also delicious with melt-in-the-mouth Ossobuco served on a rich red wine orzo with sour cherries and creamy ricotta, it was a taste sensation.
The restaurant has executed the “Crazy Grandma” aesthetic well, it has a mix of quirky touches like the light shades made out of pegs with quality, antique pieces resulting in a feast for the eyes and the belly.
Innovative and cool
There is no forgetting its historic roots. With ancient ruins (running underneath modern constructions), being displayed on roundabouts, and with one of the 7th wonders of the world carefully watching over the city, you are in no doubt where you are. What I loved about the city is that the Athenians are clearly embracing innovation alongside history. If I describe Paris as proud and stubborn I see Athens as self-assured and adventurous. Yes, they have history and traditions, but they also embrace alternatives and modern takes.
Maybe this should come as no surprise since the Greeks were the masters of innovation during those early times. There is the sense here that their history strengthens them rather than hinders them, as can be seen in cities such as Rome where the mere suggestion of elevating a recipe would be met with utter disgust.
Rooftop bars such as Stork are a perfect example of this. With an epic view of the Acropolis and ruins visible through a glass floor of the hotel lobby, the rooftop bar easily weaves modern twists on Greek cuisine through a menu such as Greek Salad with Ouzo Gel, Scallop Ceviche with Jalapeno and a Lamb Risotto to die for in a fresh modern, cool interior.
The cool innovation is seen from their street art to bars. Bar culture is huge in Athens, late on a Sunday evening the bars were full of locals playing board games and meeting with friends, so much so that we googled to see if it was a bank holiday. It wasn’t, the Athenians just like to go out! There are lots of different types of bars with unique themes and aesthetics, like the rest of the city there is truly something for everyone.
If you were unsure of a visit to Athens take this as your sign to add it to your travel list for 2025.
Review and Images by Emmie Blower @emmiebhungry
