There’s something that feels right about travelling around the Netherlands by train. It seems like the way you’re supposed to do it. In a country that is compact, forward-thinking and brilliantly connected, rail travel is the natural way to explore. Just step aboard, sit back and watch the Dutch countryside with its canals, cities and cycle paths slip past the window.
For UK travellers, the Netherlands are an easy option for a weekend break, with most airports having less than a 1 hour 20 flight time into Schipol, and for train journeys and Interrailers, Eurostar reaches Rotterdam in just 4 hours from St Pancras.
The real train magic happens when you’re actually in the Netherlands though.
From Schipol Airport in Amsterdam, it’s true that the train takes less than 10 minutes to Amsterdam Centraal, but around 35 minutes on that same train and you could be in the much-overlooked city of Utrecht (did I mention that it’s my favourite?), which is an amazing base for a weekend break.
Schipol to Rotterdam is less than an hour, and to The Hague it’s around 30 minutes. With cities like Eindhoven and Arnhem less than an hour and a half away, there are so many reasons to pack your bag and set off for one of Europe’s most environmentally progressive countries.
Utrecht
One of my all-time favourite cities, Utrecht is a just as quaint as Amsterdam with cobbled streets and winding canals, but it’s got a more laid-back vibe. With its medieval centre, tree-lined canals, independent shops and relaxed café culture, it has all the charm you could want from a Dutch city break, but with a slightly calmer pace. Visitors can enjoy some fabulous food (vegans, vegetarians and gluten-free diets are widely catered for), in gorgeous waterside surroundings.
The Centraal Museum is home to so many treasures, including a 1000-year-old boat, Dick Bruna’s Studio, and the most exquisite Petronella de la Court’s Doll’s House, from the 1600’s. It’s definitely worth a visit and it’s directly opposite the Nijntje Museum (Miffy Museum), which is a must if you’re travelling with youngsters.
If you want to get your steps in and you’re not afraid of heights, you could take a walk up (and back down) the 465 steps of the Domtoren (Dom Tower) for incredible views across the countryside.
I’d recommend Utrecht as a base if you want to spend a few days exploring the area, as the train station is central and you can be in Rotterdam or Amsterdam in half an hour by train. With Utrecht as a base the two are close enough that you can enjoy them both easily.
Amsterdam
Amsterdam brings the grand canals, world-class museums, historic houses and galleries, and it’s a brilliant city to arrive in by train, with Amsterdam Centraal putting you straight into the heart of it all.
From the station, it’s simple to reach the Rijksmuseum, home of the Dutch Masters, and the Van Gogh Museum by tram, metro or even a scenic walk through the city’s canals and streets.
Once you’re in the Museum Quarter, don’t miss out on Vondelpark it’s perfect for a wander, a coffee stop, and a bit of people-watching from one of its lovely cafés. You’ll see a whole new side to Amsterdam.
Rotterdam
Rotterdam has a completely different feel to Amsterdam, it’s very bold and modern. Arriving into the city by train, it’s easy to hop on the subway out to FENIX, Rotterdam’s striking museum of migration (a very moving collection, not for the faint-hearted), and the Nederlands Fotomuseum which brings together powerful stories, art and photography in beautifully reimagined historic warehouses.
When you add in the city’s dramatic skyline, Erasmus Bridge, bold architecture, waterside cafés and laid-back places to wander, Rotterdam is a day out not to be missed.
Insider tip – Rotterdam City Card is available via app for one, two or three days, and using that you can save 25% on 50+ top attractions, museums and tours, as well as unlimited public transport.
The Hague
The Hague is another Netherlands gem, combining elegant streets, royal history, outstanding museums and easy access to the coast at Scheveningen. You can spend the morning admiring Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring at the Mauritshuis, wander through the historic Binnenhof area, and then be by the sea later the same day.
You can take the bus out to the seaside at Scheveningen, extra services are laid on at high-season and the journey is about 10 minutes. For an example of just how imaginative and inventive the Dutch are when it comes to tackling climate and environmental issues, check out the Zand Motor, it blew my mind!
Further Afield
If you wanted to strike out further afield in the Netherlands, in just two hours on the train from either Amsterdam or Utrecht, it’s easy to reach cities such as Arnhem, with its green spaces, wartime history and creative energy, as well as nearby national parks and nature reserves.
Eindhoven, is a beautiful Dutch city, and less than an hour from Utrecht. Eindhoven is a hub of design, innovation and contemporary culture. Known for its Dutch Design Week, it’s great if you’re travelling with kids and teens looking to get into the creative industries.
The North
Head further north for a couple of hours and you can take in the vast, wide-open, elemental landscape of the Dutch Wadden Coast near Groningen.
Twitchers and nature-lovers flock to the salt marshes, dykes, tidal creeks, mudflats, for birdlife and little harbour villages. Kids will love bird spotting and hearing stories of the long-lost fishing villages and ancient mariners.
The Wadden Sea itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the world’s largest unbroken system of intertidal sand and mud flats, the landscape changes constantly with the ebb and flow of the tide and the light is incredibly atmospheric.
The Rail Network
What ties all these places together is the Dutch rail network. City stations are usually central, services are frequent, and connections between cities are impressively smooth. Interrail tickets are accepted on most routes, and normally without requiring reservations.
I’ve always found the trains to be really reliable, which makes a huge difference when you’re planning a short break and want to make the most of every hour, or if you’re taking a longer journey and needing to make your connections.
For anyone who loves art, culture, architecture, food and easy exploring, the Netherlands by train is hard to beat. It’s greener, calmer and far more enjoyable than hiring a car, and it turns even a weekend away into a multi-city adventure.
Many thanks to NBTC and Interrail for their support.
Article written and images by Sally Bendall @girlabouttravel and @girlaboutyorkshire
