Driving away from the searing heat and heavy humidity of Limassol’s coast, I felt a bit of a pang. I’m a water baby at heart, and being near the sea gives me that true sense of holiday spirit. But off to the Troodos Mountains we went, with my friend and editor Angela’s words ringing in my ears: “Take a coat, it’s freezing up there.” I dismissed the warning. It was June, and Cyprus was basking in an average of 34°C with humidity hovering around 60%. How cold could it really get?
But as we climbed…and climbed…the mountain range – born, according to Greek mythology, when Athena stamped her foot in rage and the land buckled into peaks—I could have sworn we’d been transported to northern Jordan, Lebanon, or even Bavaria. The climate, the landscape, the architecture: everything shifted so dramatically in the Troodos Mountains that it became obvious why government officials, royalty, and writers like Daphne du Maurier chose Pano Platres as their summer escape.
King Farouk of Egypt adored Cyprus so much that he and Prince George embarked on legendary road trips through the Troodos Mountains, conjuring wonderful notions of the rakish king gallivanting where no prying eyes would notice his penchant for Brandy Sours. In fact, Cyprus’s signature cocktail was crafted just for him: served tall with local ingredients so it looked like a harmless soft drink, conveniently masking not only the brandy inside but also his Muslim sensibilities.
The cultural centre in Pano Platres still houses receipts of the royal rogue’s adventures, a testament to Platres’ timeless allure.
I was alarmed to hear that the New Helvetia Hotel doesn’t have air conditioning. Quite simply unthinkable by the coast, but Platres’ mid-summer climate is so perfectly temperate that they simply do not need it. The family-run, three-star hotel is the perfect spot from which to base your adventure into the Troodos Mountains. It gives you a taste of tourism from bygone eras, with old photos and documents adorning the walls of the reception. Their stunning, long veranda, where meals and drinks are served, seems to almost hang in the trees, completely immersing you in nature. It’s rustic charm at its finest and a fantastic slice of Cypriot heritage.
The fresh mountain air is perfect for hiking the many trails of the Troodos. If you’re based in Limassol, there’s a bus each morning at 9:30 am for just €2 to take you up to the peaks. We tackled Persephone’s Trail, a gentle 3 km out-and-back hike over flat terrain with stunning views out to Mount Olympus, where you can ski during the winter months.
Beyond hiking, the Troodos offers Europe’s highest vineyards at 1,400 metres, where you can stop for a tour and wine tasting at Kyperounta Winery. After picking up a bottle or two, you can visit the Venus Rose Factory, where the Tsolakis family has been harvesting roses every May to craft rose syrup and a multitude of fragrant delights for the last 75 years. There’s a plethora of independent food businesses where you can stock up on local delicacies, such as lountza, a Cypriot version of prosciutto, or Niki’s Spoon Sweets, where there’s even candied olives.
Far less touristy, refreshing, and simply stunning, the Troodos proves that sometimes, leaving the beach is a good idea.
Review and Images by Emmie Blower @emmiebhungry
Feature image courtesy of unsplash.com
