Where do I start? This trip was to be a first for us in so many ways. It was our first overseas driving road trip – (we usually hire a car at our destination but this time took our own car), and we were travelling with Brittany Ferries and Condor Ferries, including an overnight crossing for the first leg of the journey – another first for us, our initial destination was Saint-Malo.
The weather was perfect as we drove to Portsmouth. The car was packed with everything we would need for the two destinations, and as we pulled into the ferry terminal the excitement kicked in. It was great not having to worry about luggage allowance travelling with Brittany Ferries!
This first leg of the journey was from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo on one of the new ships in the Brittany Ferries fleet, a ferry also named Saint-Malo! The queues to board her were long, but once they started to move, we were quickly through passport control and driving up the ramp to board her. Parking onboard was easy with expert guidance of dedicated crew. We then set off to find our overnight cabin and explore the ship.
Tip: Take a separate overnight bag so that you can leave everything else in the car, ready for a quick departure at your destination.
The Ferry
Taking the name of the glamorous French destination we were heading for, Saint-Malo offers a combination of sustainable travel with modern luxury.
Saint-Malo is Brittany Ferries first ever Hybrid-LNG vessel, combining LNG (liquefied natural gas) with electric battery power – just like a hybrid car.
The facilities onboard are second to none, with lots of things to keep children of all ages occupied. There are play areas, digital games and a video games room. For adults there is a wellness room, an outdoor gym, an exhibition gallery, live music and let’s not forget the duty free shopping!
Diners on board can also enjoy a hint of Brittany’s flavours and local produce, all beautifully combined into classic French cuisine. The food exceeded all our expectations – more on that later.
The ferry has spacious interior areas as well as several new cabin options – including 6-berth cabins that are perfect for larger families.
Saint-Malo has many cabin options, whatever your party’s needs and whatever level your budget. Whether you’re looking for a comfortable sailing in a standard cabin or fancy a little more luxury in a Club or Commodore class option, the facilities are more than expected with an ensuite bathroom, comfy beds and free Video on Demand.
They also have pet-friendly, wheelchair-accessible and now even allergy-friendly cabins available! Brittany Ferries have thought of everything.
Tip: From our experience, it makes perfect sense to book a cabin for an overnight crossing.
Our Cabin
Our own cabin was a four-berth, with two single beds and two pull down beds. There was an en-suite bathroom with shower, (which after a full day of travelling we really appreciated), and even desk space which was perfect for us as we always need to work while travelling.
The WIFI is free for 60 minutes when sailing to France with Britanny Ferries, thereafter you can choose one of their WIFI Plans if required.
I’d like to say we watched a video, but after a delicious meal in the C-Club Lounge, we fell into bed and slept like babies. Waking early the next day feeling fresh for our French adventure to start.
Where to Eat Onboard
Saint-Malo has dining options for all tastes and budgets. We were pre-booked into the C-Club Lounge. What a superb surprise this turned out to be.
The C-Club Lounge is on deck 8 and has stunning panoramic sea views. The setting and ambience are very much like dining in a relaxed bistro restaurant, with an outstanding self-serve buffet.
Exclusive to Saint-Malo, head chef, Patrice Pantalini, and his team have created an entirely new gastronomic experience at the C-Club Lounge. On evening sailings, the chefs delicious dishes create a refined evening meal to remember.
We were impressed by the excellent selection of seafood, meats and antipasti and salads, plus hot dishes, mouthwatering desserts and the best cheese selection we have seen in a long time! We filled our plates eating from every part of the buffet, enjoying every mouthful while sipping on perfectly chilled Chablis.
Tip: Entry to the C-Club Lounge can be paid for on board, but with limited occupancy we recommend booking in advance to avoid disappointment. Access to the C-Club Lounge includes complimentary hot and cold drinks, a variety of snacks and different selections of hot and cold foods provided throughout the day on daytime sailings. With a generous breakfast buffet available, including English breakfast items, it makes the perfect start to your onward journey.
There are other dining options onboard, again to suit your budget and requirements, and all have children’s menus for 4–12-year-olds.
Arriving in Saint-Malo
After a very calm and thoroughly enjoyable night crossing, we arrived in Saint-Malo. Disembarking was as easy and seamless a process as embarkation in Portsmouth. Our big concern – remembering to drive on the ‘wrong side of the road’! Challenging at first but it’s surprising how quickly your brain adapts!
Where to Stayed in St. Malo
There are many options for accommodation in Saint-Malo. As we were driving, we chose somewhere out of the way with secure private parking. However, there are many great hotels within the walls of the Old Town with parking, but you need to be aware that the streets are narrow, cobbed, full of people and with al fresco dining everywhere.
We enjoyed staying on the outskirts as through our daily walks to see everything on our list, we saw much more of hidden Saint-Malo and the real way of life. Buses are really easy to navigate too, and everyone was really friendly and helpful.
There are many campsites, holiday cottages, gites and hotels. There is definitely something to suit you.
Tip: Booking.com makes it very easy to choose your accommodation, with options for all requirements and budgets.
About Saint-Malo
Saint-Malo is a port city in Brittany. Steeped in history with tall granite walls surrounding the old town, which was once a stronghold for privateers (pirates approved by the king). A fabulous historical, seaside and portside city, Saint-Malo is a maritime cave of wonders which we were to discover.
Like a stone ship, Saint-Malo’s ramparts stand tall, keeping watch over its port and its beaches.
We spent most of our time in Saint-Malo’s old town, the hub of this coastal town, and where everything you need to see is located. Trust me when I say that one day here is definitely not long enough. Three to four days is perfect and makes an enjoyable start to a two-centre trip.
Our Top 3 Things To Do in Saint-Malo
1. Walk Along Saint-Malo Walls
The ramparts in the city protect the old part of Saint-Malo and have a total length of 2km. The construction of the walls started in the 1100s before being updated with new military additions in the 1600s. You can join and leave the route at different points with staircases at each door for entry, making it accessible for all fitness levels.
Locals like to start the walk at the Porte St-Vincent where you’re greeted with a breath-taking view of Saint-Malo Marina once you have climbed the stairs. You’ll then pass the glorious homes of the wealthy ship owners and corsairs, set apart from the rest of the houses by their high granite facades.
Tip: Take comfy shoes – there’s a lot of walking in Saint-Malo.
2. Explore the Intra Muros district
Saint-Malo has several districts, with Intra Muros, (literally translating to inside the walls), being one of the most popular. Cocooned within the 2km long tall granite wall, the Intra Muros district is a gorgeous map of cobbled streets lined with upmarket shops, crêperies, bars, restaurants, grand merchants’ mansions and sea captains’ houses, also with an array of open squares to explore.
When hungry, you will be spoilt for choice, there are restaurants everywhere – each with indoor seating and an al fresco dining area, the later seemed to be the most popular choice as the people watching is unrivalled.
There is also an abundance of boulangerie’s to choose from. These French bakeries are difficult to walk past, the mouthwatering aroma of baking bread hits you long before you see each shop, and the array of outstanding freshly made sandwiches in their many different French breads, the pâtisseries and viennoiseries stops you in your tracks.
Each narrow street contains amazing high end boutiques and leather specialists. We bought an exquisite leather weekend holdall for a great price.
For history buffs, Intra Muros is a dream. You can lose yourself for hours visiting Saint-Vincent Cathedral, Fort National, the Jacques Cartier Museum, and the ramparts themselves, which offer panoramic views and a glimpse into the city’s maritime past.
At low tide, it’s possible to walk to the 1689 Fort National, on a rocky outcrop, and Grand Bé and Petit Bé islands.
3. Visit Mont Saint-Michel
A little further afield, Mont Saint-Michel is about a 50-minute drive from St Malo, but its grandeur makes it well worth the trip. One of France’s most iconic landmarks, this medieval abbey sits atop a rocky island, surrounded by tidal waters.
With a history dating back to the 8th Century, visitors can explore the abbey, wander through narrow streets lined with local shops, and panoramic views of the bay. The island’s breathtaking beauty and its status as a UNESCO World Heritage site make it an essential destination on any trip to Brittany.
Both monks and nuns from the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem live on Mont Saint-Michel. They reside within the Abbey and are responsible for the daily prayer services and welcoming visitors.
We spent a whole day exploring this amazing place. This is one to add to the top of the list of places to visit.
Tip: The streets are very narrow and steep! There’s also approximately 350 steps to climb! Take your time. Wear your comfiest shoes and drink plenty of water – it gets very busy and very hot!
Too soon our stay in Saint-Malo was over. It was time to move on to Guernsey to complete our two-centre holiday. Saint-Malo had set the bar high and we couldn’t wait to see what Guernsey had to offer.
Watch this space…
About Brittany Ferries
Brittany Ferries offers the most convenient cross-Channel ferries to France, with the widest choice of ferry crossings. You can depart from three ports to France from the UK. Travel from Portsmouth, Plymouth or Poole and alight in Cherbourg, St Malo, Caen, Le Havre or Roscoff, for a direct English channel crossing to your holiday in France. For more information view the route map and timetables.
Brittany Ferries fleet of Portsmouth ferries to France provide a wide selection of sailing times and dates. All ferries offer superior onboard comfort and carry both cars and passengers. Select from the choice of cruise ferries for relaxing day or overnight sailings.
Portsmouth is the closest ferry port to London and with direct access from the motorway is easily reached from the Midlands and Southern England.
*Seasonal variations to schedules may apply
Review and images by Angela Riches and Dave Riches
Some images supplied
