Recently, I wrote about the first leg of our two centre holiday to Saint-Malo and Guernsey, travelling with Brittany Ferries. That was part one of what was to become our best two centre holiday experience – ever!
The journey from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo onboard one of the newest vessels in their fleet, aptly names Saint-Malo, was an unexpectedly easy, enjoyable and restful overnight crossing. The ship exceeded any expectations we might have had and we would sail with Brittany Ferries again in a heartbeat. Want to know why it was so good? Here’s the link to read said review.
Here’s part two…
Saint-Malo to Guernsey
Our second leg of this two centre holiday experience was to Guernsey, another destination that was a first for us. This was a much shorter crossing , and this time on Condor Voyager, a sleek high-speed catamaran ferry operated by Brittany Ferries.
Boarding and the journey were both as seamless as before, however this was to be a very different experience! This high-speed catamaran carries up to 850 passengers and 235 cars and can travel at 42 knots. She was fast.
Onboard there was plenty of space to walk around and the ultra-comfortable seating was a bonus on such a high-speed crossing. Condor Voyager also has a café, bars, air-conditioning and WIFI, as well as a duty-free shop where you can pick up some huge savings. We certainly did!
In no time at all we had reach Guernsey, the Sun Gods were shining down on us, and we were back to driving on ‘the right side of the road’ – which seemed strange after a few days driving in France.
Tip: If it’s a rough sea, they slow the crossing down, which adds time to the journey. Check the sea forecast before you set sail. If it’s a rough crossing – stay in your comfortable leather reclining seat!
About Guernsey
Well, Guernsey. How did we not know about you.
A hidden gem in the Channel Islands, brimming with stunning beaches, outdoor adventures (on land and sea), coastline and cliff path walks with views for miles, crystal clear waters, lots of history and superb hotels and restaurants.
Expecting a very quiet, laid back island experience, we were excited to discover something completely different. The day we arrived was the annual The Val des Terres Hill Climb, a renowned hill climb event that is part of the British Hill Climb Championship.
The course, located in St Peter Port, is a closed-road circuit, approximately 0.48 miles (850 yards) long. It’s known for its picturesque setting and challenging corners, requiring drivers to demonstrate skill and commitment from start to finish. And wow, did they ever.
Cars lined up alongside the seafront and took off through tight and flowing corners, disappearing up the hill and round a tight hairpin bend. It was noisy, exhilarating, spectacular and a petrol head’s dream day.
Once checked into our hotel, we hotfooted it down the hill to spend the best part of the day checking out the hundreds of racing cars, karts and motorbikes lined up waiting their turn. The event was a true spectacle and something we have spoken about many times since.
Where we stayed
Our home for the next four days was Best Western Hotel de Havelet. A beautiful Georgian house with a stunning sheltered garden and flower filled terraces, just a short stroll from the town centre of St. Peter Port, Guernsey’s picturesque capital, it was perfect.
Located on a hill the views from this boutique hotel are insane, overlooking the harbour, Castle Cornet and neighbouring Channel Islands. You could never take a bad photo here, there is beauty and interest in every direction.
Hotel de Havelet is full of elegance and character, and has more to offer than most hotels. With an excellent restaurant, leisure facilities, ample free onsite parking, free WIFI, a new free electric vehicle charging station, and thirty four exquisite bedrooms.
Our own room was very spacious and had the comfiest super king bed, vital desk space, lots of wardrobes, flat screen TV, beverage tray, safe, hairdryer, robes and slippers, iron and ironing board and a small fridge. We also looked out onto a private sheltered garden and patio, a hidden gem we might have otherwise missed.
Hotel guests can make the most of the heated indoor swimming pool, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi as well as comfortable sun loungers, or relax in an elegant lounge which has a blazing log fire for chilly evenings and wintry days.
We totally fell in love with this hotel and the people who work there. Should we make a return visit to Guernsey, we would always stay here.
Our Top 3 Things To Do in Guernsey
If you are able to, visit during The Val des Terres Hill Climb. It’s a one day event and absolutely should be part of your island itinerary if you can make the dates and love the thrill of a race track. We had no knowledge of this event and it was pure luck that it was being held the day we arrived. How lucky were we.
Guernsey Tour
You can book an island tour down the quiet lanes, hidden corners and off the beaten track.
You will be guided around Guernsey’s most iconic landmarks, as well as places only the locals know about. Enjoy beautiful views, quaint churches, and authentic Guernsey beach kiosks.
Our tour included a visit to The Little Chapel, an unbelievably small grotto resembling Lourdes, which is fully functioning with church services. Although I’m not sure if it will hold more than four comfortably!
We saw hidden trenches and bunkers left untouched from the war and German occupation of the island, and from there we visited Guernsey’s Roman Ship. Yes, an actual Roman ship dating to around AD 280, which sank in St Peter Port harbour after a fire onboard. Timbers from the wreck have been preserved and assembled, and are being temporarily displayed in a temperature controlled environment. We were in awe at the size, the ruggedness and the fact that we were actually looking at a real Roman ship!
This is a great way to spend half a day getting to know the island, its hidden secrets and treasures in the expert hands of our guide. Who by the way is extremely adept at driving a minibus around those unbelievably narrow lanes!
Tip: If you stay at Hotel de Havelet, they have their own free tours and guide, a lifelong islander, took us on a fantastic tour. He is a real character and makes the whole experience fun and interactive.
La Valette Underground Military Museum
This award-winning museum covers all aspects of Guernsey’s history, mainly focusing on Guernsey’s military history, including WWI, the German Occupation 1940-45 and the island’s Militia. Set in complex but air-conditioned tunnels that were built by the Germans as a fuel storage facility for U-Boats, the museum is near La Vallette bathing pools, and features various military and occupation memorabilia.
For those interested in Guernsey’s German Occupation years, La Valette Underground Military Museum offers a wealth of exhibits, collections and information on this era. The museum is set in a German Tunnel complex and also has various displays and militia collections from World War One. Educationally excellent!
Oh how we loved Castle Cornet!
The Castle has guarded the harbour for 800 years. You can explore the battlements and enjoy breath-taking views towards the other islands. There are four Museums, four period gardens, Cafe Maeva and a shop. Give yourself time, there’s lots to explore.
The Noon-day gun is one of most popular and impressive sites. It is fired daily throughout the season by keepers clad in scarlet costumes who will stay and pose for photos with you after every firing.
There is a public Castle Tour each day at 10:30 with one of the staff (except on some event days). This is included with your admission and takes you around the outside areas of the castle, lasting 45 minutes to 1 hour. If staffing allows, there will be an additional tour at 14:00 – please check at the shop on arrival.
Children’s trails to follow around the castle and activity sheets in some of the museums. Just ask in the shop or any of the uniformed staff around the site.
Cafe Maeva is open daily 10:30 – 16:30 so make sure to leave time for a drink and piece of homemade cake. If the weather is fine, you can enjoy outdoor seating with views toward Herm and Sark.
Within the walls of the Castle are four museums included in your admission:
Royal Guernsey Light Infantry Museum
Tip: The Castle has steps, steep staircases and uneven surfaces which those with restricted mobility or impaired vision might find difficult.
Where we ate
Hotel de Havelet – You will be spoilt for choice – as we were, and to be honest, the food was so good at Hotel de Havelet, we ate in their Copenhagen Restaurant, Bar & Grill two of the nights. They specialise in mouthwatering Fruits de Mer (Seafood Sharing Platters), and to make sure everything is freshly caught the day you eat it, you need to order this dish 48 hours in advance. So we did!
This was food theatre that was finger licking good – forget the finger bowls – we were wasting absolutely nothing! Worth every penny.
Tip: There’s a lot of food, even though it is for two people to share. Make sure you are VERY hungry!
Christies – The Christies Group is a family owned, small group of four restaurants on the island, each with their own distinct identity and culinary offering. There’s Crabby Jack’s where kids can let off some steam and adults can sit back and relax. They serve burgers, pizzas, seafood and salads. Chop House serves burgers ribs and grills. The Boathouse Pizza & Grill is perched on the edge of the harbour, and has a cool continental vibe. Out on the back deck, you will find a heavenly sun trap where you can watch the world go by and tuck into seafood (a specialty), or a very broad selection from wholesome breakfasts to a more elaborate dinner menu. Then there’s Christies Brasserie where we chose to eat. A much-loved venue in the heart of St Peter Port, Christies Brasserie is a bustling, vibrant place with a warm welcome, stunning harbour views and an elegant, art deco theme.
The perfect spot for a romantic dinner, sipping cocktails and listening to great music. Sit at the front and watch the world go by or sit at the back on their terrace and enjoy views over the harbour, the Brasserie is buzzing. Oh and they serve great food!
Our time in Guernsey flew by. We crammed a lot into our four days, but there was so much more we didn’t have time for – I feel a return trip coming on very soon.
Guernsey to Portsmouth
Our home journey from Guernsey to Portsmouth was a full day sailing on Condor Islander. After a packed week, we took the opportunity to relax and enjoy the journey. The sea was calm, and we were booked into the Club Class Plus Lounge, with its comfortable seating, stunning panoramic sea views, and refreshments on tap, making the crossing very enjoyable.
We were even lucky enough to see several pods of dolphins swimming alongside the ferry.
After breakfast, we shopped once again in Duty Free, chatted to various other passengers in the lounge, exchanging adventures and reminiscing about everything we had seen and done. Soon it was time for lunch, with an impressive choice to choose from, followed by a post prandial snooze, and suddenly we were in Portsmouth.
Tip: It is well worth the extra to upgrade to Club Class if your journey is longer than two to three hours.
Our amazing Two Centre Brittany Ferries adventure was at an end. We crammed a lot into our stay, and given the chance – we would have turned around, boarded that ferry and done it all again!
About Brittany Ferries
Brittany Ferries offers the most convenient cross-Channel ferries to France, with the widest choice of ferry crossings. You can depart from three ports to France from the UK. Travel from Portsmouth, Plymouth or Poole and alight in Cherbourg, St Malo, Caen, Le Havre or Roscoff, for a direct English channel crossing to your holiday in France. For more information view our route map and timetables.
Brittany Ferries fleet of Portsmouth ferries to France provide a wide selection of sailing times and dates. All ferries offer superior onboard comfort and carry both cars and passengers. Select from our choice of cruise ferries for relaxing day or overnight sailings.
Portsmouth is the closest ferry port to London and with direct access from the motorway is easily reached from the Midlands and Southern England for your Brittany Ferries sailing.
*Seasonal variations to schedules may apply
Review and images by Angela Riches and Dave Riches
Some images supplied
