Way back in 1998, 18-year-old Emmie packed her bags and headed for the bright lights and big beats of Bristol. Bristol was my first and only choice of university, as 18-year-old Emmie was a naïve little raver with a heart full of house music rather than her head in the books. But my instincts were right and I fell in love with a diverse city full of surprises.
So, why visit Bristol? The city is a curious mix of grand Georgian architecture, built on the dark wealth of its shipping and slavery past, blended with a vibrant underground music and art scene that made it impossibly cool to my teenage self. It is compact, meaning that you can visit a maritime museum by the harbourside in the morning, be sipping a cocktail on Whiteladies Road by lunchtime, and dancing the night away in Stokes Croft by the evening.
Returning to Portland Square recently stirred up feelings I wasn’t quite prepared for. The Artist Residence Bristol’s subtlety takes up a corner of the square across the road from The Cosy Club which is still going strong, known back in the day for hosting after-parties and being one of the few places you could still get a vodka coke well past legal hours.
The nostalgia got me with a happy sense that the vibe is still alive. Yes, Stokes Croft has had a brush with gentrification, but it’s still got its soul. And that’s what I love about this city, change happens, but it rarely erases its identity.
The Artist Residence itself is a dream for the aesthetically inclined. Industrial, shabby chic with a heavy emphasis on the art as you might expect. Prints, murals, installations, every corner, every stairwell, every surface has been curated with intent. It’s interesting, it’s edgy yet with a welcoming community feel.
I stayed in one of their Workhouse Loft rooms which managed to feel spacious yet cosy all at the same time. Flooded with light thanks to dual-aspect windows, and thoughtful in the details. Different shapes of cocktail glasses, an international adapter and phone charger and the ultimate in room luxuries, a freestanding bath. Heaven.
The location couldn’t be better, just a five-minute stroll to the nightlife of Stokes Croft. It would’ve been rude not to revisit my old haunt, Lakota. A few hours of sweaty dancing later, knowing my comfy bed and that glorious bath were waiting for me? Perfection. If you’re more about the art than the afters, the hotel’s also in the ideal spot for a self-guided street art tour. Where The Wall offers routes that guide you past original Banksy pieces and other iconic murals. And if you love a proper immersive experience, don’t miss the art exhibition Wake The Tiger.
After a night (or day) of sensory overload, let me be crystal clear: do not leave the hotel for food. The Boot Factory in the Artist Residence, is serving up food so good, you will be discussing it with every bite. Elevated small plates with massive flavours. The Pork Chop was recommended by our server and was the standout dish: juicy, perfectly cooked, paired with a delicate almond purée, caramelised onion, and gremolata that made us literally lick the plate. We also devoured Anchovy and Garlic Flatbread with burrata, blood orange and pistachio, and fried artichoke hearts that I’m still dreaming about.
If you are looking for a creative short break, Bristol should be on your radar. It is only 1 hour and 25 minutes from London Paddington via Great Western Railway, who run over 100 services daily. Day trip? Night out? Romantic stay? Rave? Yes, yes, and yes. Bristol’s still got it!
Review and Images by Emmie Blower @emmiebhungry
Some images supplied by Visit Bristol
