There are some meals that I love to call “Memory Box Meals”. The ones that you recall years later with a loved one because the ambience, food, wine and service all came together in perfect synergy to create a feeling and memory bigger than just the food.
Rewind 18 months ago, my Mum and I dined at Àclèaf. We enjoyed the unique atmosphere, diligent service and mouthwatering food so much that we have talked about it numerous times since. You see, Àclèaf is not just a Michelin Star restaurant, Àclèaf is a demonstration of expertise and passion.
Boringdon Hall Hotel & Spa was once the South West’s party home of Henry VIII. He would have welcomed his various women and aristocratic friends, to rest, dine and party with him at the beautiful estate. The Grade 1 listed building has retained much of its original charm and when you dine at Àclèaf, you feel like you are one of his special guests.
The restaurant is located on the gallery overlooking the main bar area. An imposing, embossed mural of the coat of arms creates a dramatic backdrop to the proceedings .
As the dining experience commences, you are welcomed with a complimentary glass of fizz and a basket of perfectly warm bread, two types of butter, one with truffle honey from the Boringdon Bees and snacks. Welcomes do not come much more perfect than this.
Whilst settling in, you are invited to partake in a short psychometric test which asks you to circle the leaf, shape and colour that most appeal to you. This determines a surprise course that you are treated to later in the meal. A lovely inventive talking point and you will already notice that the four courses has jumped to six.
The menu is simply written, giving you the same feeling as clothes shops with no price tags! That more is beneath the eye and you would be right. Each course is a multi-layered journey of sustainably sourced ingredients curated into melt-in-the-mouth delicacies.
We enjoyed starters of Creedy Carver Chicken Liver Parfait with a Pedro Ximenez jelly on top, served with a laminated brioche roll with chicken fat butter. Quite simply a life changing dish. My Dad enjoyed layers of Duck Terrine and ethical Fois Gras, poached quince, quince jelly and garden herbs.
Our second course showcased Squab. Pigeon is tough to cook well, but this Breast of Squab from Anjou was melt in the mouth and served with date stuffed merguez sausage, preserved lemon gel and pigeon roasting jus. Robust, earthy and interesting flavours.
The Fillet of Sole from Brixham Harbour stuffed with red pepper, scallop, served with yuzu dashi gel and bouillabaisse style jus and Provencal anchovy tart was a light, tasty main in contrast to the Loin of Venison.
We finished with two showstopping desserts. I have never seen a more intricate, yet robust toile. There is a very accomplished pastry chef in that kitchen. Their signature dessert is a Duck Egg Custard which gets tweaked with each seasonal menu release. It’s an elevated Crème Brulee situation which I would order again and again.
If you have room for it and a penchant for cheese, they have a lovely cheese trolley and you can also order courses that have supplements, such as caviar and wagyu.
This time around I took my lovely Dad, we sat people watching and sharing food, talking about the family and how much Châteauneuf-du-Pape he was drinking. We contemplated what it would have been like to be one of Henry VIII’s guests and settled on that we had probably had better food than he did.
I can guarantee that this will be a memory box meal, that will now be discussed with both Mum and Dad for years to come. Àclèaf has just launched its Spring menu for 2025.
Review and Images by Emmie Blower @emmiebhungry
Feature image supplied
