When most travellers imagine Provence, they picture high summer: lavender fields bursting with colour, crowded markets, and clinking glasses of rosé in the blazing July sun. But those who live in the Var region will tell you the truth: the best Provence begins in October.
In Cotignac, one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, the crowds vanish, the air cools, and the village slips into a slower, richer rhythm. Autumn gives way to the deep flavours and rituals of winter: quince festivals, wine-paired feasts, artisan workshops, and the earthy perfume of black truffles unearthed from misty forests.
At the heart of it all is Lou Calen, a three-hectare eco-luxury estate that has revived Cotignac’s historic centre. More than a hotel, it is a cultural hub and a front-row seat to a Provence that few outsiders ever see.
OCTOBER: THE GOLDEN MONTH
Autumn in Cotignac is an invitation to linger. Markets overflow with figs, chestnuts, and late-harvest grapes. The village square hums with music and conversation. And Lou Calen’s programming taps directly into the season’s bounty.
- The Quince Festival (October) – Cotignac’s most beloved tradition, where the village square fills with artisan stalls, local delicacies, and live music. In 2024, even an equestrian show joined the festivities — proof that this is as much about community as it is about cuisine.
- Le Grand Repas (9 October) – A nationwide culinary event celebrating local, seasonal food. At Lou Calen’s Bistrot, Michelin Green Star chef Benoît Witz will craft a one-off menu that honours the region’s autumn harvest.
- Vignobles en Scène (17 October) – A wine-lover’s dream. Both Le Bistrot and Le Jardin Secret will host a visiting winemaker for a collaborative wine-pairing dinner, set against the backdrop of Cotignac’s historic square.
Beyond the table, Lou Calen’s hands-on workshops offer a chance to slow down and connect with Provençal life. Guests can forage for wild herbs, weave traditional baskets, or carve wood with local artisans, each experience rooted in the rhythms of the land.
AS WINTER DESCENDS: THE TRUFFLE SEASON
As November fades, Provence reveals its most intimate side. Markets quieten, the limestone cliffs of Cotignac stand stark against winter skies, and the first black truffles appear.
- Aups Truffle Market (from late November) – Just 20 minutes from Lou Calen, this bustling market is the unofficial opening of truffle season, where locals, chefs, and curious travellers gather for the year’s first “black diamonds.”
- Truffle Hunting with Lisa Canut (December – February) – Guests of Lou Calen can venture into the forests of Aups with truffle producer Lisa Canut. Guided by her dogs, they’ll learn the art of hunting truffles before returning to Lisa’s home for a tasting steeped in local tradition.
This seamless shift from the warmth of autumn into the hushed luxury of winter is what makes Cotignac so rare: a chance to witness Provence in its truest, most soulful form.
WHY NOW
For years, Provence has been defined by its summers. Lou Calen is rewriting that story. By anchoring itself in seasonal traditions, from foraging walks and heritage crafts to Michelin Green Star dining, it has become both a retreat and a cultural lens into a side of Provence that most travellers will never see.
“Summer shows you Provence’s beauty,” says Graham Porter, Lou Calen’s owner. “Autumn and winter show you its soul.”
AT A GLANCE: AUTUMN–WINTER HIGHLIGHTS
- Quince Festival – October: Local market, live music, and village rituals.
- Le Grand Repas – 9 October: Benoît Witz creates a special menu celebrating seasonal Provençal produce.
- Vignobles en Scène – 17 October: Wine-pairing dinners with guest winemakers.
- Workshops at Lou Calen – Foraging walks, basket weaving, wood carving, and more.
- Aups Truffle Market – Late November: The start of truffle season.
- Truffle Hunting with Lisa Canut – December–February: Private hunts and tastings of truffles with a local producer.
- Zad Moultaka at La Falaise Gallery – Autumn exhibition from the acclaimed Lebanese artist.
Images supplied
