It was a true pinch-me moment flying to Anguilla. The island-hopper plane was an experience in itself: just eight seats, a hole in the window for air conditioning, and even a brief landing on Nevis to drop off a local who had been shopping in Antigua.
Then, as the clouds parted, Anguilla came into sight, a faint outline of the place I’d call home for the next week.
The airport is possibly the smallest I’ve ever flown into, giving pure Death in Paradise vibes. There are no direct commercial flights from the UK at the moment, but this may change as a larger airport terminal and extended runway are under construction. Easier access will be great for Anguilla’s tourism industry, though it may also bring larger crowds and slightly steal the magic of the island hopper, and perhaps the exclusivity that attracts the A-listers and millionaires who have long considered it their private escape.
Walking into my sea-view suite at Zemi Beach was another pinch-me moment (let’s keep count). The vast super-king bed was positioned so that the entire room dedicated itself to the view, an expansive stretch of the Atlantic Ocean, albeit a far kinder, warmer version than I’m used to facing in Cornwall. The hypnotic horizon from the balcony confirmed what I already suspected: I had landed in paradise.
This, I soon realised, is the Anguilla Effect. I must have had ten or more conversations on the island with people who all told the same story: they visited as a child or in their younger years, and vowed to return, live here, or buy a holiday property. The draw is magnetic. The same is true of Zemi Beach’s owners. Avid travellers, the owner’s wife has made it her mission to collect art from around the world to decorate the five-star hotel.
The crown jewel is the spa. Incredibly, the building itself is a traditional Thai structure, moved from a rice farm in Chiang Mai by the owner’s brother and rebuilt as the hotel. Somehow, it doesn’t look out of place; instead, it commands calm and seamlessly fits into its Caribbean surroundings.
Stepping inside the world-class spa feels like entering another realm. Incense curls out from the shrubbery, chimes dance on the breeze, and guests are welcomed with juice and a cool flannel. The atmosphere is professional, peaceful, and every bit the five-star experience I had hoped for.
Treatment rooms are set beneath pitched roofs, there’s the Caribbean’s largest hammam, a pebble pool by the relaxation area, and even a juice bar. Guests can join sunrise yoga sessions or simply curl up with a book surrounded by serene sights and sounds. After my superb 5 Elements massage, I overheard another guest booking a repeat treatment for the following day. I loved that for them.
Beyond the spa, Zemi has two pools, one leading directly out onto Shoal Bay East. By law, no beach in Anguilla is private, yet it feels like your very own stretch of sand. Breakfast on the terrace, palms swaying, white sand gleaming, and the ocean sparkling, it was pure bliss and dare I say it, another pinch me moment.
Another highlight was the unlimited lobster BBQ at the hotel’s buffet night. Lobster is one of my favourite foods, especially grilled over coals, and after London’s meagre portions, this extravaganza of plentiful seafood was decadence personified. The live entertainment added to the magic, a hotel staff member took the mic and wowed the crowd with outstanding vocals.
The indulgence continues in the Rum Room, where some shots go for as much as £650. No, they didn’t let me try one, but I was assured it’s among the best rum-tasting experiences in the Caribbean. Thankfully, if your budget doesn’t stretch quite that far, local producers such as Glo Rum offer more accessible bottles, with flavours ranging from sorrel to mint, to pineapple.
On the plane, I met a woman who brayed, “Oh darling, Anguilla, there’s nothing there.” Personally, I think she missed the point entirely. The charm of Anguilla lies in its unspoilt beauty: the iconic Arch, the Catholic church decorated with pebbles, the haunting remains of the last cotton plantation. Here, Mother Nature sings, and you can lose yourself in once-in-a-lifetime natural splendour.
If you feel like venturing out, there are wonderful local businesses to support, such as Sands and Salt, a chocolate and salt-tasting shop. For centuries, Anguilla’s salt lakes produced prized crops thanks to the island’s blazing sun. Today, you can buy beautifully flavoured salts, from smoked to onion.
If Zemi Beach looks like your kind of place, you can choose from a beach villa with a private infinity pool stretching out towards the aquamarine waters of Shoal Bay East, or a penthouse with a private rooftop pool and three bedrooms. The styling throughout the property leans into a Bali-esque aesthetic: towering palms and lush greenery frame glimpses of the ocean at every turn. If you like neat luxury, established tropical gardens, and clever design that constantly reminds you of where you are, Zemi Beach delivers it in spades.
And that’s the Anguilla Effect. It draws you in, makes you feel part of it, and leaves you certain you’ll return.
For more information on Anguilla, please visit www.ivisitanguilla.com.
Prices to stay at Zemi Beach House start from US$600 per room, per night, plus taxes, service charge and a reef recovery fee at an additional 27%. www.zemibeach.com
Review and Images by Emmie Blower @emmiebhungry
