If you follow us on Instagram, subscribe to our newsletter, or just hop onto our online magazine platform for a good read and some holiday inspiration, you will have read about our recent narrowboat trip from Napton to Rugby and back.
You will also remember how much we loved it as it was a first for us, and nothing could have prepared us for the pace of life and how much we would love being off-grid with no signal or WIFI. Yes, we fully embraced the narrowboat life. So much so that when we had the opportunity to do it again – we jumped at the chance!
Once again, everything was arranged through Drifters Waterways Holidays however, we had a completely different route and a different narrowboat, supplied this time by Grand Union Narrowboats.
Let’s get into the details, starting with a reminder of why you should book through Drifters.
Drifters Waterways Holidays:
If you’re going to do this you might as well book with the best!
The whole trip was arranged through Drifters Waterways Holidays. Drifters is made up of 10 professional canal boat holiday operators, handpicked because they uphold the highest standards. This means they have over 500 narrowboats for hire from 40 bases across England, Scotland and Wales, Drifters offers the choice of hundreds of narrowboat holiday routes and destinations.
We collected our boat this time from Grand Union Narrowboats, located in Weedon on the Grand Union Canal.
Owner Steve and his team were amazing! Nothing was too much trouble, the tour of the boat and training before we were ‘let loose’ was comprehensive and light hearted. A great way to ensure everything sinks in without a feeling of information overload.
We couldn’t wait to start our journey, we had been promised this route was spectacular.
Our Narrowboat Jasmin:
Last time, our boat was 60 feet in length. Jasmin was even bigger at an impressive 62 feet. A four berth built for comfort, with more space than most six berths.
The galley is equipped with full sized cooker and four burner hob, electric fridge, and toaster. There is a 240V supply on board for phone charging etc and she has a new super quiet low emission engine. The cabin is well insulated for warmth in the spring and coolness in the summer, and has a new modern oil fired central heating system along with a constant supply of hot water.
We particularly liked the seating arrangement with comfy leather swivel seats. Perfect for sitting round the table for that all important game of scrabble in the evening!
Other features include, two double beds (6’3” x 4”), with interior sprung mattresses for ultimate comfort. Flat screen TV/DVD player/radio and CD player, and two bathrooms with full sized showers. All bed linen and towels are also provided.
Prices are inclusive of fuel, insurance, and car parking.
Our Route:
The full Monday to Friday trip would take us from Weedon to Cosgrove and return. A total of 36 miles, taking approximately 15.5 hours and tackling 16 locks! We were up for the challenge!
Day one: the route was truly stunning. We had been told this was a very pretty route, but our expectations were well and truly exceeded. We set off from Weedon on the Grand Union Canal and cruised to Bugbrooke where we moored up for the night and ate a hearty dinner of home-made Lamb Stew with crusty bread. After a game of scrabble and a couple of beers, we hit the hay good and early – we had a marathon day ahead of us and we wanted to be fresh and make an early start.
Day two: we headed out to Cosgrove, a 14 mile journey with eight locks. This would take approximately eight hours. Remember, top speed is four miles an hour!
You quickly lose yourself in conversation and drinking in the stunning scenery. And if like us you love spotting gorgeous houses – there are many on this route, some absolute corkers so have your phone ready for those Insta shots and videos.
We soon needed to navigate Blisworth Tunnel – now that was an adventure in itself! Blisworth Tunnel is one of the longest tunnels in Britain, and just wide enough for two narrowboats to pass at the same time. It’s pitch black in there, and at certain points showers of water rain down on you. But it’s exciting , especially when you see the headlight of another narrowboat coming towards you. It takes 30 to 40 minutes to pass through, and it’s fascinating watching the pin prick of light at the other end slowly get bigger to reveal the exit and blinding sunlight.
Next we tackled the locks.
There were eight in total and they were all together, one after the other. It was busy and we were pleased to see volunteer lockkeepers working the first couple of locks and directing operations so that it was organised and not a free for all.
Everyone was told to queue and wait their turn. It was so busy that two narrowboats at a time had to use each lock. Thank goodness we had Dave onboard – he’s a natural. That left me and Glenn my brother, on lock duty.
Let me tell you we got some serious steps in walking from one lock to the next and burned lots of calories opening them.
Finally through the locks, we moored up for the night. It had been a long, eventful day and we were starving and tired. Once showered and fed, and after a couple of mandatory beers and games of scrabble (yes, we became addicted to scrabble on this trip), we all fell into bed and slept like babies.
Tip: Wear waterproofs when going through the tunnel, it gets very wet!
Day three: before setting off on our return journey, we filled Jasmin with water at the water station, and found ourselves first in the queue for the locks. We were by now lock experts!
After the previous full on day, we decided to take it much easier, and once through the last of the eight locks, we moored up at Stoke Bruerne to explore the area, leaving Blisworth Tunnel for the following day.
We had hoped to visit the Canal Museum, the first of its kind in the country. A historic Grade II listed corn mill, it offers three floors of rich waterway heritage and panoramic views. Unfortunately, the Canal Museum has irregular hours and was closed. Our fault we should have checked.
Tip: check opening hours before visiting to avoid disappointment.
So we took to sitting outside The Boat Inn on the side of the canal with a few cooling beers, watching the world go by and discussing how perfect canal life is.
We then walked slowly along the towpath to Jasmin, admiring the stunning narrowboats that people actually owned and lived on, chatting to the barge community along the way. This way of life was really seducing us.
Day four: we set off for Blisworth Tunnel. This time we met lots of boats coming towards us, and we had fun shouting at each other and making ghost noises in the darkness. It was funny to see people peering out of the windows and making faces at us.
Once through the tunnel, we meandered slowly back towards Stowe Hill, relishing the last full day of this amazing holiday. Travelling at such a slow speed, you really appreciate the English countryside, the wildlife, and this wonderful hidden community of narrowboat people.
Eventually we reached our destination, moored up and made our way to our chosen pub for dinner and a few drinks, before turning in for our final night onboard Jasmin.
Warning: All of that fresh air each day completely knocks you out. We were not prepared for the 9pm bedtime each day – we were completely shattered at the end of each day, and we slept like babies.
Day five: it was time to return Jasmin to her rightful owners; Grand Union Narrowboats. Our canal barge adventure had come to an end. What an adventure it had been. We fell even more in love with this gentle way of life and we can see the appeal of such a lifestyle.
I don’t think it will be long before we do this again.
Where We Ate:
Day One: We ate on the boat. Pre-made Lamb Stew and crusty bread, frozen and taken with us.
Day Two: Navigation Inn at Cosgrove, overlooking the Grand Union Canal and surrounding countryside. A Victorian inn, carefully restored and extended with an extensive lounge and bar area, 80-seat restaurant, and covered garden space.
They have a Mediterranean-inspired menu and a wood-fired pizza oven. Great atmosphere and good food. We gave it a thumbs up, and returned the next morning for breakfast!
Day Three: The Boat Inn at Cosgrove. Lovely position on the canal, we ate in the Bistro. Decent pub grub. It hit the spot.
Day Four: The Narrow Boat at Weedon. This family run pub was stunning. Fantastic service, an excellent menu, and the fastest WIFI we found throughout the trip. This was a real find.
Tip: Do your research before setting off and pre-book for dinner at your chosen pub/restaurant each day.
Places to visit:
The UK’s largest canal charity the Canal & River Trust has published 8 free guides for Places to Visit on its canals and rivers in England and Wales, including Stoke Bruerne and Cosgrove (featured in the East Midlands guide).
You can download your free guide at www.canalrivertrust.org.uk/free-guide
For more information about Drifters Boating Holidays call 0344 984 0322 or visit www.drifters.co.uk
Canal and River Trust:
Founded in 2012, Canal and River Trust is the UK’s largest canal charity, caring for a 2,000-mile network of stunning canals and navigable rivers.
Connecting many of the UK’s urban and rural areas, we provide essential spaces for wildlife and people, helping us all feel happier and healthier.
The 250-year-old waterways in our care – the canals, embankments, culverts and reservoirs as well as the bridges, locks and towpaths – and their vital ecosystems are threatened by the growing impact of climate change and more extreme weather. They need constant upkeep and investment. Without it, they face decline and closure, and we risk losing the incredible benefits they bring.
Together, with your active support, we can keep canals alive. Join us and protect waterways for nature to thrive and everyone to enjoy. Today and in the future.
For more information about visiting the canals go to http://www.canalrivertrust.org.uk
Review and images by Angela Riches and Dave Riches
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