You haven’t even had the chance to wear that party jacket you bought last month, and a trendier style is already out. You can get that one too; it’s affordable, with even cheaper dupes hitting the stores as we speak. But you also have another one that’s a trend-proof classic you recently got for a steal. It’s a shame it looks tired after just a couple of wears; otherwise, it would’ve been perfect.
Even though shopping is fun and trendy clothes have never been more accessible, people are growing tired of the never-ending, incredibly sped-up loop of buying and discarding. The grip of fast fashion is slowly loosening as more people turn to craftsmanship in the form of DIY, artisan, and bespoke fabrics and clothing.
Why Are Handmade Clothes Better?
Because the focus is on quality rather than quantity. Instead of churning out thousands of identical pieces as quickly and cheaply as possible, artisans take the time and put in the effort to produce garments that transcend seasons and hold up over time despite regular wear. A key part of this process is the careful selection of clothing fabrics.
What Kind of Fabric Do I Need to Make Clothes?
You need to choose high-quality fabric for clothing that’s appropriate for the garment you’re making or having made. This is important for two reasons. Great stitching won’t make up for poor material, and not all textiles work for every design.
Knowing your garment fabrics is crucial to making sure the final piece looks, fits, feels, and performs the way you planned. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast, a professional dressmaker, or someone who wants custom-made outfits but finds it hard to put their ideas into words, here’s a quick guide to help you make smart, informed material choices every time.
What Are the Different Types of Fibres?
These can be broadly categorised as natural and man-made. Cotton, linen, hemp, wool, and silk are all natural fibres, derived from plant or animal sources. Polyester, nylon, acrylic, rayon, and modal are examples of man-made fibres, classified as synthetic or semi-synthetic.
Although clothes crafted from natural fibres are often comfier and more breathable, you can’t simply write off synthetics entirely. For instance, waterproofs and other specialised garments typically rely on man-made fibres to deliver technical performance, protection, and durability.
What’s the Difference Between Knit and Woven Fabrics?
This has to do with the way the material is constructed, specifically how the yarns are looped or interlaced. Knits are created by interlocking yarns together in loops, which gives them their natural stretch, flexibility, and softness or the properties you value in t-shirts, hoodies, and sweaters. Some of the popular knits you’ll come across include jersey, rib, and French terry.
In woven textiles, there are two sets of yarn crossed over and under each other at right angles. They’re typically stronger and more structured than knits, which is why they’re often used for shirts, trousers, dresses, and coats. Denim, corduroy, flannel, georgette, and chiffon are just some of the materials that fall into this category.
How to Choose Fabric Weight?
The weight directly influences how a garment drapes and feels. It is usually measured in grams per square metre (GSM). The higher the GSM number, the heavier and thicker the material will be. So, is higher GSM better? That depends on the application.
For coats, jackets, trousers, and outerwear, choose heavyweight for more structure and better durability. Lighter weights are ideal for activewear and summer clothing since they’re more breathable and help keep you cool. Here’s how these three broad categories usually sit on the scale:
- Lightweight – 30 – 150 GSM
- Medium-weight – 150 – 350 GSM
- Heavyweight – 350+ GSM
What Is Fabric Drape?
The term drape refers to the way a material falls or hangs when it’s worn. It plays a major role in determining the silhouette and movement of a garment. Drape often correlates with weight, meaning lower GSM counts are usually more fluid and higher ones are more rigid. However, this isn’t a strict rule, and it’s always best to consider both of these factors together when planning a project.
High vs Mid vs Low Drape
High drapes are very fluid, forming lots of soft folds as they hang. They’re often the choice for wrap dresses, drapey blouses, and other attire that’s meant to feel light and elegant. Mid-drape options strike a nice balance between flowy and crisp, with a straight fall that doesn’t cling or stand away from the figure. Low drape materials are much firmer, creating larger, more pronounced folds. However, they don’t gather softly or follow your movement; they tend to sit away from the body, creating a strong, crisp silhouette as seen in some jeans and coats.
What Other Factors Should You Consider When Choosing Fabric for Clothing?
Colours, patterns, and prints. It’s not just whether you like a certain design or not; there’s more to it than aesthetics. For instance, it’s easier to work with solid colours because they don’t require precise matching at the seams. When working with prints and patterns, you’ll need to carefully plan and align the pieces so the lines or motifs flow smoothly across different parts of the garment.
Speaking of workability, woven textiles are easier to handle than knits. It can be challenging to achieve smooth, straight stitches with knits as they tend to stretch and shift during sewing. That said, satin weaves can be just as tricky because they’re slippery.
This raises the question: What type of fabrics are recommended for beginners? Generally, the best place to start is with non-stretchy, medium-weight wovens such as cotton poplin, cotton lawn, chambray, and linen. Avoid very lightweight materials like chiffon or organza and thick textiles like denim until you feel more confident.
Closing Thoughts
Now that you know a little more about what each of the fabrics has to offer, it’s time to get hands-on to truly feel what makes each one unique. Visit your local sewing store or find an online supplier that offers a swatch service so you can compare the textures, weights, and colours in real life.
Images supplied. Feature image courtesy of unsplash.com
